TRIP TO ANDAMAN AND NICOBAR ISLANDS
India offers a very wide variety of places of tourist interest which can satisfy almost everyone who is looking for leisure, education, history or fun time. While I have had the opportunity to travel to almost every state in the country by now, a trip to the Andamans was due.
The Andamans, (short for Andaman & Nicobar Islands) a Union Territory, consists of 836 islands grouped into two island groups, the Northern Andaman Islands and the Southern Nicobar Islands, of which only 31 are inhabited.
The weather in the area throughout the year is rather hot since it is located in the belt of 6° to 14° North latitudes. The islands have a tropical climate with warm summers and not so cool winters, typically the temperatures around the year average from 23°C to 31°C.The rainfall is dependent on the monsoons and tropical cyclones are common in late summer. The ideal time to visit the islands thus reduces to the period of December to March and the time to definitely avoid is the Monsoons.
Port Blair is now well connected by air, and a number of airlines operate flights to Port Blair. Port Blair has a modern airport terminal too. The airport is named Veer Savarkar International Airport. International flights are yet to commence, may be due to some regulatory reasons.
First view of the Island
One of the things to remember while planning a trip is that the time of arrival in Port Blair and other places dictates the programme and the number of days necessary to get a good idea of life in the Islands. Also, movement between the islands is on a ferry which has fixed timings and its good to book tickets well in advance lest one has to spend an additional day just to move from one island to another. The movement of the ferries is of course subject to weather and sea conditions.
With all this in mind, we decided to go there in end January 2024, made our reservations for air travel, the hotels/resorts and ferries prior to the travel and divided the trip into 3 parts
Port Blair and Southern Andaman - 3 nights
Swaraj Dweep (earlier Havelock island) - 3 nights
Shaheed Dweep (earlier Neil island) - 2 nights
Port Blair and Southern Andaman
We traveled from Pune, hence we had to take a flight to Bengaluru and from there boarded a flight to Port Blair. Immediately on arrival at Port Blair at around 2.30 PM, we were picked up by a prearranged dedicated cab.
After a brief discussion with the driver who was also our local guide, we headed straight to the Cellular Jail about which I had read for the first time in Veer Savarkar’s autobiography in Marathi माझी जन्मठेप while in School. The description of his life in that jail, while undergoing a sentence of 50 years of RI had made a lasting impression on me. For entry into the Cellular Jail, there’s an entrance ticket for the visit, its also good to engage a guide who conducts groups through the jail. It was mainly the revolutionaries, many of them remain nameless for lack of records. who were sent to this far off jail for the more severe forms of sentences. The inhuman and unbearable conditions in which these ‘prisoners’ were confined in their solitary cells without any contact with each other, can be imagined only after a visit to the jail. The cells occupied by the revolutionaries, the place where they were made to extract oil from coconuts and were punished with lashes for failing to meet the impossible targets and worse, the gallows where some were hung, have left a very vivid impression which Veer Savarkar had very lucidly written about in his book. The visit to the cell he stayed in was also very moving. It involves a walk up to the cell which is on the second and top floor, everyone may not be able to undertake it.
At night, there’s a Sound and Light Show of 50 minutes or so, in fact 3 sessions of them, which explains the entire significance of the Cellular Jail and the life the revolutionaries led there. Its a very moving experience, one cannot leave without shedding a tear and paying homage to the Revolutionaries. Tickets need to be purchased, the seating arrangement is good, seat numbers are allocated on the tickets. The only jarring note was that many over enthusiastic visitors click videos of the Show which disturbs others, the Administration would do well to curb this activity. One of the major reasons for visiting these islands for many, is the visit to the jail to pay homage to the revolutionaries. Its a place not to be missed.
We had checked into the Hornbill Resort which was closeby. While the Resort is good, offers a fantastic view of the sea, going to the Rooms involves going down and up a number of steps, not easy for everyone. After spending the night there, on our second day, we planned to go to a place called Baratang Island, 110 kms away, from where we were to take a ride in a motor boat, called speed boat, through mangroves and see a limestone cave.
For going to Baratang, there are fixed timings for the convoys which are escorted by the police since the route goes through Jarawa Reserves, the tribals inhabiting the area are yet to be integrated into others way of life and are at times known to harass the visitors. We took the convoy which leaves around 9 AM from a place called Jiraktang, which itself is around 40 kms from the town. There’s a speed limit of 40 kms/hr for the journey hence the whole trip takes almost the whole day to complete. The move back is also at fixed times. One of the highlights of the trip to Baratang is the expectation that one would see some Jarawas by the roadside but we were not so lucky.
At the end of the road journey, there’s a 10 minute ferry ride to cross over to the Baratang Island from where speed boats take you on a ride through the mangroves and to the limestone cave. The Cost of the speed boat is 9000 per boat, till the ferry site, everyone moves in their cabs and the drivers organise the sharing of the boat trip, thus the cost per head turns out to be Rs 900 per head. The 20 minute ride to the limestone cave is nice and worth it, reaching the limestone cave itself involves a walk of about 1.2 kms and is easy to undertake. The cave isn’t very big or deep and may disappoint those who may have seen such caves elsewhere. Prior to the return journey, lunch is generally to be had on the island, the facilities though not as modern as one may expect, are hygienic and clean and one can get reasonably good food, both vegetarian and non vegetarian, at a reasonable price. By about 6 PM, we reached our resort. This trip may be avoided by those who are short of time as it doesn’t have much to offer.
The Ferry
The Limestone Cave
On Day 3, we went to Wandoor Beach and also visited a museum located very close to it. The museum is small but gives a good idea and information about corals. The Beach itself is clean, nice with not too many visitors. This could be because the aquatic area is fragile and protected, no activities are permitted there. The view of the sea from here is breathtaking though, the water is clear with many different hues of blue/green.
The Wandoor Beach
While the view is great to spend some time, the same thing would get repeated in the islands which are being visited in the next few days. We had lunch there at a Resort close by. After some rest at our place of stay, the evening was for a trip to the Chidiya Tapu to watch the sunset. Enroute, we also spent some time at the zoo which is elementary although the trees and fauna are worth a look. The Zoo also provides electric carts for movement within, making it that much easier to go around.
The Chidiya Tapu gets crowded by the time sunset is due as almost everyone who is in Port Blair lands there and the sunset doesn’t disappoint either. Its a breathtaking view, worth the wait and travel. Just hope that the weather holds out and doesn’t spoil the fun.
The Sunset
Swaraj Dweep
On Day 4, we were to move to Swaraj Dweep by a ferry. There are 2 companies which run ferries, Makruz and Nautika, both are similar. The ferries are comfortable and well equipped. The check in at the jetty is almost on the lines of an airport, security check and all that, so be prepared to reach the area at least 45 minutes prior to the departure. All luggage also goes along, the existing system works well but could do with a bit of modernity in handling. The ferry ride is for about 90 minutes, we had a near perfect ride in it. With that, the Port Blair part of the trip was over, except the return to the airport to catch the return flight.
We arrived at Swaraj Dweep around 9.30 AM, were received by our designated cab driver and checked into another Govt run Resort, Dolphin. There’s a bit of a walk with luggage involved here, as you reach the parking area.
The Resort was comfortable and catered for everything. The rooms here were double storeyed, we were allotted the upper floor and offered a good view of the sea. The property is right next to the sea, not much of a beach though, and the sea is clear with hues of blue. The property is quite huge and there’s adequate area to walk/laze around. Although the food here was good, we found a small restaurant just about 150 mtrs away which served local food and the food there too was excellent. In the afternoon, we made a trip to Radhanagar beach and spent the night back at the Resort.
The views from the Resort
On the Day 5, we were scheduled to make a trip to the Elephant beach which has all the water sports activities and the ride to see the corals, but late in the evening of the first day, we were informed that due to the rumoured sighting of a crocodile, the Elephant beach wasn’t considered safe and hence wasn’t open for tourists that day. As such, we had to stay at the Resort for the day. We spent the day exploring the island and going to the Kala Pathar beach in the evening which was close by, not very big or impressive. The highlight of the beach is that getting into the sea is permitted at this beach, it also has many shops selling curios etc. One of the important lessons learnt was that its good to hire a bike/scooter for sightseeing rather than a cab. 2 wheelers are available at convenient locations everywhere, if you are confident and intend to hire one, make sure to carry your driving licence and follow the traffic rules, including wearing of helmets by both the rider and the pillion. Drunken driving invites strict punishments and heavy fines. We found the traffic discipline and ensuring of adherence by the police, exemplary all over the Union Territory.
The Sunset photos
It was around 9 AM on Day 6 (our third in Swaraj Dweep) that we got to know that the Elephant beach was now safe for travellers and accordingly we headed to the jetty to go to the beach. The jetty is rather disorganised and cramped for space. There are many stalls which sell tickets for the ride to the Elephant beach and the various adventure activities. All of them charge the same. The redeeming factor is that even if you purchase the coupons for adventure activities but for some reason don't undertake them, the money is refunded on return. By the way, the coupons for such activities can also be purchased at the Beach at the same rates and with similar conditions. The only thing to remember is that there’s no mobile network coverage in the Beach, hence all payments there have to be made in cash.
The speed boat takes 10 people and one has to wait for the boat to fill up, not too long though. The journey is about 40 minutes and nice and easy. Our captain of the boat was one Pranab Mukherjee or so he introduced himself and was witty. He regaled us with stories of his years of plying the boat in the area as well as telling us about what to expect and do at the Beach. At the small and constricted Beach there are a whole lot of tourists who come in for the adventure. There's a time of 3 hours given for the various activities after which you return in the same boat that you came in. At the Beach, you find very many activities taking place like jet skiing, parasailing, banana boats, sofa rides, Octopus ride and what have you. Also the boat ride, with a glass bottom, to see the corals. There’s also the option of a “submarine” ride, where you are under the water although the boat isn’t. Each of the activities here costs between Rs 600 to 800, the submarine ride is quite costly. There’s also the snorkeling, where after initiation into it, one is taken to the area of the corals, its generally restricted to age group between 14 to 70. At the Beach, toilets and bathing areas are provided as also lockers to keep your belongings and a room for change of clothes, all on cash payment.
We had opted for the glass bottom boat ride and a sofa ride. The glass bottom boat ride can very well be said to be the highlight of the visit. The view of the corals and the variety of multi coloured fish under the boat is breathtaking and a must when one goes to the islands. Thereafter, we undertook what was the Sofa ride in which we were tugged behind a speed boat as if seated, actually almost lying down, on an inflated ‘sofa’, it was quite an adventure and we were holding on to the supports for dear life. After that I even had a ride on a jet ski, my first one. That too was very adventurous. After about 2 hrs, all of us had completed all that we set out for and we got back to the jetty for our return and the last day at the island.
The adventure sports boats/equipment
Shaheed Dweep
The next day, Day 7, we boarded the Nautika Ferry for the Shaheed Dweep. The process of getting into the ferry is simpler and smooth. At the Shaheed Dweep, there’s a longer walk to the parking area but there are cycle rickshaws available to take the luggage up to the cabs. They generally charge Rs 100 and combine the luggage of many passengers.
Here we checked into Sea Shell Resort which has a private beach of sorts and is a high end luxury resort. Has all the trappings, swimming pool, spa et al. Food is good.
This island is known for its serene and pristine environment, and is a popular destination for a tranquil getaway. The beaches have white sand shores and crystal-clear turquoise waters. The beaches are called Laxmanpur Beach, Bharatpur Beach, and Sitapur Beach and are all located close to the Resort. On this island, one can enjoy sunbathing, swimming, or just take long walks along beautiful beaches, watching the sunrise/sunset. The waters surrounding the island are rich in coral reefs and marine life.
Views from the “private beach”
We went to the Laxmanpur Beach by cab to laze around and watch the sunset. Almost every tourist on the small island seemed to have headed there. The sunset was spectacular. After sunset, we went to the shops nearby which sell curios, food items and local delicacies.
The Sunset
On Day 8, our second day at the island, we went to the Sitapur beach, early morning to watch the sunrise. There was a crowd of about 100 of us, not everyone likes to wake up early to watch the sunrise. The sunrise was worth all the trouble though. Thereafter, we went to the Laxmanpur Beach 2, also called Natural Beach, it has a Natural bridge made of coral reefs over the ages. One must go there during low tide, thats the time that one gets to walk among the corals. We were lucky to see the corals and fish swimming about in the water. It involves quite a walk over the corals and one needs to be ready for it. Our guide was the one who showed us the places where such corals and fish were, without a guide, one may miss out on this part except seeing the corals.
The Sunrise from Sitapur Beach
The Natural Bridge
The Coral in the shallow water during low tide
These fruits are used to make heady spirits
After a hefty breakfast, we set out again to the jetty area for another ride in a glass bottom boat on this island. Dare say, the corals here are in greater abundance and are a delight to watch, although most tourists give it a miss since they may have already seen it at Elephant Beach. Other sports activities are also available but not many people undertake these.
We returned to the Resort for some well deserved rest after the hectic trip over the last week or so. In the evening, couldn’t resist walking down to the Sunset point to have another look at the sunset though, it was that close by. Here again, it may be better to hire 2 wheelers rather than a cab.
The last Sunset in Shaheed Dweep
Back home
After spending 8 days in the islands, it was time to get back home. We boarded the Nautika ferry to Port Blair, after some shopping in Port Blair on the way to the Airport, we boarded the flight to Bengaluru and then to Pune.
The Andaman trip was excellent and is a must for all those who love to travel. The beaches are clean, unlike most other beaches in our India, the waters are pristine and of many hues and the people are very friendly and go out of their way to make you comfortable.
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